North Iceland, Continued
Dettifoss, Leirhnúkur and Akureyri
July 5, 2026
We awoke to temperatures in the low 40s, and it barely got above 50F all day, but the wind was blowing less. Nonetheless, we had one of our biggest walking days. Our first stop was about 45 minutes away. Dettifoss is a popular attraction, but there were only two cars in the parking lot when we pulled in. The cold weather must be keeping people away.
Here again is the map of North Iceland.
The walk to Dettifoss was both longer and more challenging than we had anticipated, in part due to a trail closure and broken boardwalk. When we finally reached the viewpoint, we felt the spray of the huge nearby waterfall, 144 feet high, and learned that its water flow is the most powerful in Europe
(or second most powerful, the sign on site said the Rhine Falls is most powerful).
The landscape does not seem like it would be the location of a giant waterfall, does it? The waterfall was hard to photograph, especially with the spray.
After spending about an hour there, we drove about another half hour to Ásbyrgi, a volcanic U- shaped canyon. We drove the length of the canyon and parked beneath the highest part of the walls, where they reached one hundred meters high.
We took a walk through birch and willow forest, which was in bloom with purple flowers called wood cranesbill. There was also a beautiful bright green pond with many ducks and other birds. We learned that when the island was settled, 65% of the land was covered by these forests which were quickly cleared by settlers to create pasture and hay fields.
Birch forest to left and wood cranesbill, above. Below (and top of page) are views of the canyon and its pond.
We then drove a bit more than an hour back to the Lake Mývatn area, where we had lunch and rested our feet. After lunch, we set out from the hotel and drove about a half hour to the Krafla Volcano with its turquoise crater lake, aka Viti Crater. Look at the color! The flying bugs were bad here, and we wore our bug nets over our heads.
We then moved the car several hundred meters across the road and walked in the volcanic area called Leirhnúkur. We climbed the mountain through volcanic fields with multi colored features and different colors and shapes of lava. Part of the walk was on a boardwalk that went by a small blue/white lake and then climbed up the top of the volcano with a tremendous 360 degree view.
Some photos from the walk including a huge black lava field
(lower left) and a collapsed crater in the distance, middle right.
Photo below on the right shows people at the top spot to which we climbed.
While walking through the geothermal features, it was definitely warmer than it had been just a short distance away where our car was parked. After completing our walk, we drove by an impressive geothermal electric plant on the way back to our hotel.
Despite the cold temperature and sometimes annoying flies, we had a delightful day, walking over six and a half miles. Tomorrow we start our three day journey to Keflavik and the airport.
July 6, 2026
We left Mývatn and headed west on the ring road, Highway 1. Our first stop involved a detour of 41 km south off the ring road via a gravel road. We encountered sheep in the road, very few cars, and two places where we had to get out of the car to open and close gates across the road.
Our destination is Aldeyjarfoss, a basalt framed waterfall. The hike down to the waterfall was short, but very steep. We encountered just as many flying insects as yesterday. But we were glad to see this waterfall, since we had missed the other two basalt waterfalls on our trip due to rain or long distance.
A view of the river below the waterfall.
Next, we went to one of Iceland’s widest falls, Goðafoss, which is located downstream on the same river. The waterfall can be viewed from both sides of the river, but we decided the west side had the best view of the falls. The size of this one was impressive.
After, we drove to Iceland’s second largest city, Akureyri, (population just over 20,000) where we will be spending the night. But it was about noon, time so we merely fueled up the car and our bodies with lunch. After lunch, we walked around for a few minutes in the central business district before driving north along the fjord.
There we visited the Laufás Museum and Heritage site. This museum consists of a 19th century turf farm and we were able to walk through the buildings which were filled with furnishings and farm implements. It was an interesting glimpse into 19th Century life in the area, which was mostly farming. A display said that during the first census taken in 1703, less than 1% of the population worked in pursuits other than farming (clergy and housemaid primarily). Today, Iceland is overwhelmingly urban, with 94% of the population living in urban areas.
Top is Akureyri from across the fjord. Lower left, the main street and lower right, a typical Icelandic hotdog stand.
The front, below, and rear, left, of the sod houses. Lower left is a display of butter making equipment inside. Butter is still featured prominently in Iceland, often topped with herbs or salt.
Next, we drove back to Akureyri, and after looking at some historic buildings, checked into our hotel. At this point we decided a soak in one of Iceland’s many hot springs was in order. We booked a slot at the Forest Lagoon, located just across the bridge over the fjord from the city. We had a wonderful soak in the peaceful forest setting in the pool, filled with body-temperature water. We failed to take photos, having left our phones in the locker rooms.
Tomorrow, we start the drive south towards Reykjavik.
Here’s one last picture from Akureyri.
